smith



(Nomadel.)

" J. S. 8U S.`SMITH.

CARPET.

YN o. 315,353. Patented Apr. ZZ; 885.

UNITED STATES -PATENT Grrrcn.

JOHN S. SMITH AND SAMUEL SMITH, OF GLASGOW, SCOTLAND.

SPECIFICATION 'forming part of Letters Patent No. 315,353, dated April 7, 1885.A

Application filed September 2, 188.. (No model.) Patented in England November 9, 1881, No. 4,908. Y

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known th at we, JOHN STEWART SMITH and SAMUEL SMITH,both subjects of the QueenV of Great Britain and Ireland, and residing in Glasgow, Scotland, have invented certain Improvements in Kidderminster, Scotch, and Ingrain Carpets and other similar rIwo or Three Ply Fabrics, (for which we have obtained a patent in Great Britain, dated November 9,

1881, No. 4,9052) of which the following is aV specification.

Our invention consists of improvements in Kidderminster,Scotch,or ingrain carpets, and other similar two or three ply fabrics.

For convenience we will describe the invention as applied to carpets or fabrics of the kind technically known as shotabouts. In Weaving such fabrics the warp is formed of threads, usually arranged in groups of two, four, or siX, passing through one split of the reed of the loom. Each thread of the group may be of different color; but the groups are generally alike in regard to the number and color of the threadsin each. The weft may consist of three or more threads of dierent color carried in shuttles, which are thrown or shot7 in rotation to produce in any of the plies alternate threads of two or more colors.

For convenience in describing such fabrics, we shall assume that alternate threads of olive and White form the warp of one ply and alternate threads of red and black form the warp of the other ply, although, where required to give'V variety of coloring to the pattern, part of the warp of one ply may mingle with orV be I transferred to the other ply.- We also assume that there are four Acolors of weft-thread corresponding to the warp. Any other combinations of-colors for warp or weft may,'how ever, be used.

In weaving such fabrics of the Ordinary construction the jacquard or loom harness is arrangedto raise the various colored threads of the warp'in such orderJ as to form the pattern ou either side ofthe fabric. At the Sametime journals, two eyed jacquard needles, heddles, or other-shedding devices are operated to form a shedA Ora' separation-of all the threads of one color from the remaining threads of different colors, so-that cloth lmay be formed when a shuttle of weft is thrown.

For weaving a twoply carpet four journals I are used, and are raised in succession to raise "l all the warp-threads of one color at a time, each journal having all the warp of one color tied up to it. If the carpet is self-colored;- that is,woven from warp of two colors `only`l then the warpthreads of each color are divided equally between two journals, each alternate thread of one color beingtied upto 6c one journal and the other threads of the same color to the adjacent journal, as if there were four colors iu-the warp. Vhen a shuttle of one color is thrown in weaving a four-colored shotabout, all the warpthreads of the same color are raised by the journals. and as many of the remaining threads of different color which are required to form the pattern on the upper 'side are raised by the jacquard.- harness. At the parts of the fabric where 7o the color of the pattern corresponds to that of the weft-thread being thrown the shnti t-le passes into the upper ply; but where the color ofthe weft does not appear in the patf tern of the upper ply the shuttle passes into the back ply. Thus, where the jacquard raises the warp to form ,the pattern on the upper ply, cloth is formed inthe back ply by,` thejour'nals; where the pattern-threads are not raised, cloth is formed on the upperply 8o by the journals. By the action of the jour nals warp-threads of one color are always raised above the weft-threads of the same color, because the'` shuttle -is thrown which corresponds to the color of warp ra'sed by^85 the journals. The result is the crossing on the upper side ofthe top ply of the fabric of warp-threads of one color over weft of the" same color. This is also the result on the upper` c side (that is, the inside) of thelowerply, and as` 9o all thewarp of that one color is for the time being raised, the wrong color ofwarp must ap-.` pear crossing below weft of that one color on the outside ofthe lower ply. The effect of this combined action of the jacquard and journals `9 5 is to form on the back or under side of the fabric a pattern which, while in its general features forming a counterpart or reverse77 in color of the pattern on the upper side, is marred by warp-threads ofvarous colors cross- Ic ing weft-threads of different color or colors.

If the plies of a two-ply fabric be Separated,

as may in general be readily done by cutting the fabric horizontally between the plies where the plies are not mixed, it will be observed that a correct counterpart or reverse of the pattern on the upper lside of the fabric has been formed on the vupper side of the lower pl y-that is, inside the fabric-the formation of the correct pattern on the upper side of the lower ply being due to the action of the journals in raising warp-threads corresponding to the color of the weft-shuttle thrown. Such correct counterpart or reverse pattern is of course hid and lost between the plies of the fabric. It is one of the main objects of our invention to effect the weaving or manufacture of two or three ply fabrics so that the correct counterpart or reverse of the pattern shall be produced on the under outer side of the lower or lowest ply, while the marred or disfigured pattern shall be transferred to the upper side ofthe lower ply-that is, to the center of the cloth. rIhe lower ply is thus, as it were, reversed.

In making our improved fabric we dispense with the use ofjournals or ordinary shedding mechanism in the loom, and employ jacquardharness instead to raise the threads which form the cloth as well as the threads which form the pattern, in order that the warp-threads may be so raised that the warp-threads of any color shall cross or appear on the surface of weft-threads of the same color only on both sides of the fabric, whereby a clearly-defined pattern is obtained In some cases two-eyed jacquardneedles or shedding-heddles or similar devices are used instead of journals, but in 4every case for' the purpose of effecting the raising of all the warp of one color-that is, one-half of the warp of one plyat a time. The action of such shedding devices is the same in every case.

In order to admit of jacquard-harness being used to raise the warp, which usually is raised by the journals or other shedding devices, it is necessary to have two sets of harness, or to double the width of the Jacquard machine, or, as we prefer, to divide the cards into two portions, one of which portions is used to'raise the warp-threads forming the pattern, while the remaining portion is used to raise the correct warp-threads to form cloth. For this purpose it is also essential that there should be only one eye in the needle of the jacquard, and one needle should be provided for each warp-thread of the pattern or repeat of the pattern, so that each warp-thread of the pattern may be acted on independentlyof every other thread in it.

In our improved construction of fabric we obviate what is known as gazing or grin ningthat is, showing the warp and weft of one ply through the weft of the other ply. In the ordinary weaving of two or three ply fabrics the plies are, in many parts of the fabric, quite distinct and detached from each other, and are bound together. At these parts some of the warp-threads of one ply cross direct from the outside of the lower ply to the outside of the upper ply of the fabric, or vice Versa. At these parts the weft-threads of both plies are dragged or drawn together in such a way as to form a single ply in which the weft is overcrowded. At the point of crossing of the warp the weft-thread of one ply is drawn almost alongside the weft-thread of the other ply, so that the weft-thread of the one ply is seen alongside that of the other ply with warpthreads over it. In other words, the wrong color of weft with the loose warp of both plies over it gazes or grins through both plies. As the weft-th reads adjacent to each other are always of different color, (owing to the practice in weaving shotabouts of throwing weftthreads of different colorsin rotation, as hereinbefore eXplained,) the eect of this gazing through either ply of weft-threads differing from the colors in the pattern is to disgure the pattern very materially.

In our improved fabric the warp threads of the different plies do not cross at once from the outside of the lower ply'to the outside of the upper ply, or vice versa; but when crossing is to take place the warp-threads pass first from one side into the center of the cloth while one shuttle is thrown, and then pass .to the other side while another shuttle isthrown. The weft of the different plies is not, there fore, drawn together, and although the warpthreads cross from one ply-to another, or what is ltermed mixing of the plies takes place, the thickness of the fabric is not reduced to a i single ply, but remains uniform throughout.

The accompanying diagrams illustrate the old mode-and our new mode of weaving twoply fabrics. Figure l of these diagrams is a pattern or design as drawn on pattern-paper in the usual way for the Oardcutter. Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of a piece of two-ply carpet of the pattern shown in Fig. l, and as woven in the ordinary way. Fig. 2A shows the upper side of the piece of carpet, and Fig. 2B shows the back or under side. Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section of a piece of two-ply carpet of the saine pattern as Fig. 2, but of our improved construction. Fig. 3A shows the front side of the fabric, and Fig. 3B the back or under side. The pattern in Figs. 2A and 3" is very slightly altered from the design Fig. l, for convenience of showing the warpthreads in the sections, Figs. 2 and 3. Fig. 5 shows parts of loom-cards marked olive A, red A,7 white A, and black A, one of the cards being used when a weft-thread of corresponding color is thrown; and Fig. 4 shows four diagrams of guides or guide-sticks which we use in cutting the cards, these guides being marked olive B, red B,77 white B,77 and black B, to correspond to the cards. In these figures the warp-threads in the like parts of the pattern are indicated by IOO IIO

the numerals l to 16, and the weft-threads by the letters a to g. The longitudinal sections,

Figs. 2 and 3, are taken between the warpl threads marked 9 and 10 ofthe pattern.

`The cards in Fig. 5 show the cutting for the two weft cords or lines j of the design, Figs.

l to 3. The colors of the-warp and weft threads are indicated by using strong lines for black, strong dotted lines for red, thin full lines for olive, and small dotted lines for white.

In the pattern of. the carpet shown in the The sections, Figs. 2 and 3, are intended to show in what respect our construction of fabric differs from the ordinary forrn. Itwill be observed thatin Fig. 2 the black warpthread crosses or appears on the outside of red weft-threads on the back of the fabric. The red warp appears in like manner over black weft, olive warp over white weft, and white warp over olive weft. This crossing of warp threads of one color over weft of different color occurs at every throw of the shuttle on some part or other of the fabric, and the back of the fabric is disfigured in the manner indicated in Fig. 2B. On the other hand, in Fig. 3, which represents a section of our improved fabric at the same part of the pattern, the black warp -threads cross only black weft threads, the red warp crosses only the red weft, olive warp crosses only olive weft, and white warp crosses only white weft on both outer sides of the fabric. The result is the formation on the back of the fabric of a correct counterpart or reverse of the pattern of the front or upper side, as isindicated in Figs. 3A and 3B.

In addition to the disgurenlent of the pattern on the back of the fabric of ordinary construction, the patternon both sides is rendered defective by gazing, as hereinbefore explained.

The effect of gazing cannot be well represented in an ink drawing, and is not therefore shown in Figs. 2A and 2B; but it may be explained by reference to Fig. 2.

At the lines of weft marked j k Z it will be seen that the black and olive warp-threads cross the plies of the fabric from the outer side while the red and white warp lie in the center of the fabric. When this crossing takes place,

the two rows of weft (forming the front ply and back ply) are drawn alongside each other, or nearly intothe saine plane, instead of remaining, as they should, the one behind the other. One objectionable effect resultingfrom this crossing is the forming of a rather closelywoven single ply, instead of a two-ply fabric at t-he part where the crossing occurs. An other objectionable effect is that, owing to the repeated crossing of the warp from outside to outside in a given length, either the warp must suffer by being strained or stretched at the crossing points or` the weft cannot l be beaten up equally at these points and at parts of the fabric where the crossing does not occur.

A third and still more objectionable effect is that the weft-threads of the one ply are shown alongside the weft of the. other ply on both sides of the fabric, instead of the one row being hid beh-ind the other, and as the adjacent weft-threads of the two plies are alwaysof different color, the pattern on both sides of the fabric is rendered defective bythe appearance within it of strips or rows of weft of colors whichshould not appear.

i For example, at the weft-linej'iu Fig. 2 a

black weft-thread should be seen on the front of the fabric and a white weft-thread on the` back; but owing' to these weft-threads being drawn together a mixture of black and white is shown on both sides. Not only are the` wrong colors of weft shown gazing or grinning in` this way, but also the warp-threads, which at these points'pass between the plies, are also shown gazing or grinning across the lweftot j y' wrong color.

On reference to Fig. 3 it will be seen that in our inode of weavingthe Warp-threads are not in any case caused to pass entirely across from the outside of the one ply to the outside of the other; but when crossing does take place the warp first passes to the center of the plies and awaits a shot or throw of a shuttle before crossing to'the other ply. In this way the three objectionable effects referred to are altogether avoided. At the weft-lines j k Z in Fig. 3 it will be observed that the black and olive warp-threads do not cross the plies, but

ico,

the black warp passes at the frontplyround* the outside of the black weft-thread j, inside or-behind the olive weft k, and outside the black weft Z. It then passes behind the olive weft m to the center of the fabric, and as the next black weft, n, appears on the back ply the black warp passes round it. The olive warp lsimilarly passes round outside olive weftthreads and inside the black weft at these lines. At the back plythe red Warp nog.

similarly passes round red weft and the white warpround white weft, and when these warpi threads have to change from the back to the front ply they first pass into the center. These redv and white warp-threads do not remain in Vthe center of the fabric, because they are wanted for the back ply; and in the fabric as shown in Fig. 2 these warp-threads lie idle, because they are not required for the time being on the front or upper side of the fabric,

IZO

there being no white or red at that part of the, 1

pattern.

These threads, though required on f the back ply, are held up by the action of thejournals, and cannot get down to take the place of those which cross weft of different color.

In cutting the cards for weaving our fabric we find it convenient to divide the card 1on-` f gitudinally, andito cut eight rows of holes` across the cards, four of which rows are used for raising the threads to forni the pattern in the usual way, while the remaining four rows are used to raise on the front ply the threads corresponding in color to the `.shuttle being `ternate threads.

thrown, and on the back ply to let the threads of that color down-namely, to raise the al- Four rows of holes would suit our purpose as well as eight; but the cards would then have to be of twice the usual length.

To cut the one-halfl of the rows on the cards to form the pattern there is no great difficulty; but to cut the remaining half correctly is an operation that could not be readily performed without some means of aiding the memory of the card cutter, because the design -paper which is before him only shows how to cut the portion of the card which raises the warpthreads to form the pattern. By considering what should be the reverse of the design before him, and remembering that the card had to be left uncut to let down the warp-threads required to form cloth on the back ply, the cardcutter could with some difficulty cut the cards correctly on the second half; but as the operation would be too tedious we have devised a system of cutting by the use of guide-sticks, which enables the card-cutter to cut the cards correctly with ease. These guide-sticks,which are represented in Fig. 4, are simply slats or strips of wood or paper, which are divided to correspond to the divisions of the pattern-paper used, and which have the divisions colored alternately olive and red, blackaud White, or of other color to suit the pattern being used.

The rst and third rows of holes in all the cards are used to raise red warp, the second and fourth rows for black, the fifth and seventh for olive, and the sixth and eighth for white warp. One-half of each card is used to form the pattern, as usual, the other half instead ofjournals to form cloth. The portion ofthe card used to form the pattern will be on the left-hand side when throwing a shuttle to form one ply, and on the right-hand side to form the next ply, and so on right and left alternately. Vhen cutting the card marked volive A (which shows the cutting for t-he weft-line z' of the design Figs. 3, 3", 3B, and which is used to raise the warp when the olive shuttle is thrown,) the left-hand half of the card is used to form the pattern and the right-hand half to form cloth. The rst four transverse rows on the left-hand side are cut in the usual way to raise the red from the center to the top of the front ply, and the black from the outside of the back ply to the center of the fabric, because red and black are the colors of the rst four cords ofthe design. The second and the third four transverse rows are left uncut, because neither red nor black appears on the cords of the design numbered 5 to 12, inclusive. The fourth transverse row is again cut to raise the red and black, as before, because the red again appears at the last four cords on the design numbered 13 to 16. In cutting the right-hand half of the card the guidestick marked olive B :is used, and is placed over or in line with the weftcord-z of the design, and wherever olive on the guide-stick matches olive on the design holes are out in the fifth and seventh rows, so that the olive warp is raised over the olive weft where it is required on the top of the front ply. Where the red on the guide-stick matches red on the design, holes are cut in the sixth and eighth rows of the card. The sixth and eighth rows are, however, used to raise white warp, and by cutting holes in these rows the white warp is raised above the olive, (which is then forming cloth on the back ply,) so that white threads do not cross below the olive weft to mar the pattern on the outside of the back ply. Vhere olive on the guidestick does not match olive on the design, no

holes are cut, so that the olive warp remains down where the olive-shuttle is forming cloth on the back, and olive warp will consequently cross below olive weft and form the pattern correctly on the under side of the fabric. rlhus for the weftline i holes are cut in the sixth and eighth rows to raise the white to the center, and no holes are cut in the fifth and seventh rows of the card for the rst four cords of the design,A because the olive warp is wanted to cross under the olive weft at the back of the fabric.' The white and olive warp thus form cloth at this part on the back ply while the olive-shuttle is thrown.

For the cords of the design marked 5 to 8 and 9 to l2, holes are cut on the fifth and seventh rows to raise the olive warp, because the olive warp has to cross above the olive weft on the front of the fabric; but no holes are cut in the sixth and eighth rows for these cords, because the White warp is intended to pass to the back ofthe olive weft on the front ply. The olive and white thus form cloth at this part on the top ply while the'olive-shuttle is thrown.

For the cords of the design marked 13 to 16, holes are cut in the sixth and eighth rows of the card to raise the white to the center,while there are no holes cut in the fth and seventh rows, because the olive warp should be allowed to remain down to cross under the olive weft of the lower ply and form a correct pattern on the outer under side of the fabric. At this part of the fabric the olive and white warp are forming cloth with the olive weft at at the back ply of the fabric.

In cutting the card for the next shot or throw of the shuttle, which is the red shuttle and card marked red A, (according to the order we have for convenience adopted,) the cutting for forming the cloth is on the left-hand side of the card, and the cutting for forming the pattern on the right-hand side. This is required because the red and black Warp are used to form cloth with the red shuttle,and the guidestick red B is now used. This guide-stick is colored olive and red alternately, the red divisions of the guide-stick being the odd divisions, 1 3 5 7, &c., instead of the even divisions being red, as in the rst guide-stick;

ICO

l'lO

consequently in cutting this card by the use of the guide-stick red B to form cloth, holes are cut where no holes were cut onthe rst card. In cutting for the pattern on the other half of the card, holes are also cut where no holes were cut in the first card. This is what is required to form a correct pattern on both sides, because at the parts where the olive appears on the front or back ply, respectively, the red appears respectively on the back or front'ply. The cutting of the cards for the white and black shuttles is effected in asimilar Way by using the guide-sticks marked white B and "vblack B, respectively.

It will be observed that by using one eye-in y the jacquardneedles and by having one needie for each warp-thread of the pattern or repeat of the pattern, and also by using the jacquard-harness instead of journals, we have command over every warp-thread of the pattern, and can raise them at will by cutting the cards where the warp is to be raised.

The improved construction of fabric described applies to three-ply carpets or fabrics as well as to two-ply fabrics, as will be readily understood by any one acquainted with the weaving of such fabrics.

Our new carpet may be woven either in hand-looms or power-looms.

It should be understood that we do not wish 3o to claim in this application the guide-sticks y herein described as explaining the method of cutting the cards. y

We claim as our invention- As a new article of manufacture, 4a carpet 35 y or other fabric in which warp-threads of one color overlie weft-threads of the same color only'on both sides of the fabric, and the warp in crossing from one face to the other lies between the plies for a throw of the weft before 4o passing to the other ply, the said fabric being y evenly two or three ply throughout, and having on one side a correct counterpart or reverse of t-he pattern on the other side, while the. warp and weft of one ply do not show through the weft of another ply, substantially as described. a i

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

JOHN s. SMITH. sAML. sMrrH.A

Vitnesses:

WALLACE FAIRWEATHER, J AMEs MCDOUGALL. 

